img_20151220_150901-1.. or Hawthère? Well, that’s what you get if you always use the name of th pattern you made as post title. If you’re making a pattern hack of a French and American pattern you might just end up with ‘Bruyorn’. Okay, I could have gone with something is. Wouldn’t have been the first time that I didn’t stick to my own principles, but to be honest I think Bruyorn sounds funny, and who knows, maybe I’m setting a trend and tomorrow everyone is sewing Bruyorn and I gave this hack its name ;) If you haven’t guessed by now, the dress I am going to show you is one half Bruyère and the other Hawthorn.Bruyère actually is a shirt pattern by Deer&Doe, that I’ve already made twice. Once with and once without sleeves. I used the pattern pieces for the bodice, the waistband, the sleeves and the button plackets from the Bruyère pattern and the skirt from the Colette Hawthorn dress pattern.


I love sewing shirts and shirt dresses and that is why I own a lot of them. I decided it was time for another version. I wanted a shirt dress that looks more like a real shirt than the Hathworn does. One with a real collar an such. I thought about buying the Vintage Shirt Dress pattern by SOI but halfway through the ordering I had that enlightenment and so Bruyorn it was.

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I didn’t have to make any muslins as I’ve already made both pattern multiple times. The Bruyere shirt fits me in size S, when I make the bodice a little tighter at the side seams, the Hawthorn dress fits me in size 2 (here, here and here is proof). I started with the bodice and before adding the waistband I basted the skirt to the bodice to see if it works out. And well, it did. Otherwise I would have simply changed the bodice, but no need for that. I then cut out very long button plackets and continued sewing according to the Bruyère instructions.

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I totally french seamed this dress. In the beginning I was too lazy to change my serger thread and I didn’t have any matching thread at home.

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Now I can tell you that rethreading the machine would have been a lot faster. Even buying new thread and threading the machine would have been faster. ;)

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Well, I figured it would take longer french seaming everything instead of just serging it, but I like to challenge myself and I think I made progress with my french seaming skills and to be honest, it was a lot of fun! :)

I also included in seam pockets and had to think about how to french seam them. But there really isn’t much to think about. You just french seam them

img_20151220_143318I cut on the bias wherever I could, because I love the effect. Also, I didn’t have to match so many lines ;) As the rectangles on my fabric are huge and not square I had some difficulties matching them at the side seams.

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I am also not so keen about the slash at the cuffs. With the method that is shown in the Bruyere instructions I just couldn’t get a real clean finish. Next time I would work the Hawthorn instructions for the slits, the look way neater and are much easier to sew.

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I interfaced the button placket, the collar and the cuffs. I always use very lightweight interfacing because I don’t like it when party of my garments are so stiff they don’t move.

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When I cut the fabric on the bias I realized that it was very stretchy, but only on the bias. So I decided to let it hang before hemming it. I let it hang for about a week because I would stop lengthening at the sides. Afterwards I recut the hemline and made a tiny little hem.

img_20151220_143400I had the buttons at home and form the beginning I knew I wanted purple one. I again cut into the seam of the upper button hole. I did that with my other two Bruyeres too. I don’t know what it is and why it always has to be the upper button hole. Maybe because you can see it best. Well I fixed that as good as I could.

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Because i could add a lining directly to the dress as there is this button placket I’m wearing my slip dress underneath. Just look how the colors match.. awwwww!

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Talking fabric I got this one when I made a fabric seeing tour (as opposed to sight seeing tour) in Paris. I bought 3 m of this beautiful cotton flannel for 7 € only. I couldn’t believe my luck back then. Now I know that this color might not be for everyone, as well as the combination of colors. That might have been the reason why no one except for me wanted that fabric. Well, your loss! Haha. I really like really like this fabric! And i liked it even a little more when I found purple tights in my closet, wheeey!

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I already wore this dress at my companies Christmas party and I plan to wear it at the familiy Christmas celebration, I think the green looks kind of Christmasy. And that was justification enough to sew this dress, because to be honest: i have a but load of dresses I could wear to any occasion that ever comes up ;)

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I hope you have a great holiday and spend a lot quality time with your loved ones. And of course I hope you find a lot of time to sew ;)


Macht’s gut!


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12 thoughts on “Bruyorn

  1. Kirsty

    This is great! Perfect button choice, they match so well. Have you seen the buttonhole chisels you can get? I always used to cut through my buttonholes until I got one of those, and now they’re always perfect :D

    1. Katharina Post author

      Thanks Kirsty :) Well, I think I have actually heard of them but I couldn’t get my hands on them so far! But thanks to you I know they really exist and I’ll be on the look out again ;)

  2. Noelle

    Great dress! Christmassy but also perfect to wear any old time. The plaid is a great color combo and so are the patterns. I agree – better to have light interfacing so your dress doesn’t feel stiff. I like my clothes to move with me. Happy holidays!

  3. Valerie

    Hi another lovely sewing project finished !! Well done. How do you find the time to sew so many lovely garments ?

    There is a way to cut open the buttonholes. Probably find it on YOU TUBE….

    Best wishes


    1. Katharina Post author

      Hey Valerie! I have my own sewing room and even if I have only little time, like 15 minutes or so, I sew. Plus I don’t have children and my boyfriend is working on his PhD, so apart from my full time job there aren’t man things I spend my time with :)
      Thanks for the tip! :)

  4. Lisa

    Perfect Christmas dress!! You’ve got it styled well with the purple tights and oh-so-cute boots. Not to mention the coordinating buttons and slip. Though no one can see the slip, you know it’s there and that it’s awesome. :) Hope you had a wonderful Christmas and am looking forward to seeing all the wonderful things you’ll be making in 2016!